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From the House
The ghungroo is a dancer's bell. Tied in rows around the ankle, it makes movement audible, which is why you hear a Kathak dancer before you see her. These earrings take that idea and shrink it: a few bells at the edge of a drop or beneath a stud, so there is a small sound when you turn your head.
Every bell is tied on by hand, one at a time, and that is where most of the making time in these styles goes. The Ghungroo Studs keep it to a few bells, small enough for a working day. The Chandbali hangs a row beneath a kundan crescent, the most festive of the three. The Geometric Ghungroo sets them against printed fabric in a cleaner, more contemporary shape.
What the three share is restraint. A ghungroo tips into costume very easily, and the line between heritage and fancy dress is mostly a question of how many you use. These stay on the right side of it.
In Kathak the ghungroo is not decoration, it is an instrument. A dancer wears anywhere from fifty to two hundred bells on each ankle and is expected to control them, to sound them on the beat and hold them silent between. Learning to stop them ringing takes longer than learning to make them ring. That is the tradition these earrings borrow from. Not the ornament, but the idea that sound is something you can wear and command. We traced the whole journey in from classical dance to everyday jewellery.
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